Pittsburghers in the know head to the city’s South Side when they’re in the mood for some great bar food, a frosty pint of beer or a shopping expedition. Since I was in town for a travel writing assignment, it was my duty to investigate.

The hub of activity occurs on East Carson Street between two shopping complexes, The Shops at Station Square and Southside Works—indeed, those itching for a retail experience may not get too far past these two spending opportunities. Station Square, near the Smithfield Street Bridge, runs along the Monongahela River and is a departure point for cruises provided by Gateway Clipper Fleet (a AAA GEM attraction) and Just Ducky Tours (conducted in those whimsical amphibious land/water vehicles). There’s an indoor mall with a variety of shops, plus a decent selection of nightclubs and eateries, including a Hard Rock Café. Southside Works, incorporating the live/play/work concept, is an expansive plot inhabited by retail and restaurant chains, a town square, a movie theater and stylish apartments.

Always in search of the unique and funky, I was more interested in the stretch linking the two complexes, so I headed to the East Carson Street business district. I was not disappointed. I strolled along East Carson and poked into whatever locally owned stores caught my fancy. There were plenty to choose from—boutiques touting colorful clothes with a Bohemian flare, a really cool guitar shop, tattoo parlors, cupcakes, hip baubles, the list goes on. But, I had a mission. I arrived at my first destination, Fat Heads Saloon. Unfortunately, so did everyone else in Pittsburgh. The Penguins hockey team just won the Stanley Cup and Pittsburgh’s charmingly fanatical sports fans were out carousing. I sidled up to the bar and grabbed a seat. I was there to determine whether, in fact, their signature Headwiches—really big sandwiches—were the size of a human head. They were, and I’m happy to say that taste was not sacrificed for size in my Beauty and the Beasty Sandwich, an awe-inspiring pile of roasted pork, slaw and pickles spiced up with some barbecue sauce. By the way, they have some great brews on tap. And, while I’m discussing really big sandwiches, one of the Primanti Brothers locations was just a stone’s throw down East Carson. Maybe you’ve seen them on the Food Network or read about them—they’re the ones who slap the French fries directly on the sandwich. I ordered up one of their Ragin’ Cajun chicken breast sandwiches at their downtown Pitt location the previous day, and I’ll admit, I thought it would be disgusting with those fries dumped in there, but is was actually pretty good. The fries weren’t greasy like I assumed they would be and they created a different kind of textural sensation. But, I digress. My next stop was the Pretzel Shop. My fond memories of those soft, hot, doughy New York pretzels quickened my step, and I found that the small shop was indeed pretzel utopia. Flavors like Cajun, garlic, parmesan and cinnamon beckoned, resulting in fresh, tasty selections that were refreshingly cheap—70 cents each. Since I’ve been waxing poetic about sandwiches in this blog, I’ll mention that you can grab a pretzel sandwich for $3.50 or less. I didn’t try one, but the gyro version looked intriguing.

Those on the hunt for decent nightlife should definitely plan to spend an evening here. As I wandered along East Carson, it seemed like every other business was a pub, eatery, or some combination of the two. I returned one evening and had a potent tropical cocktail in a kitschy yet fun souvenir mug at the Tiki Lounge. Sports fans yearning to catch a televised game may want to pop into Mario’s South Side Saloon, site of the Penguins’ rambunctious Stanley Cup victory party. (Is it a coincidence that the owner of the Penguins is Mario Lemieux?)

A Day in the Strip District
No really, it’s not what you think. This isn’t a red light district brimming with strip clubs.  The Strip District gets its name from the fact that it is a narrow strip of land just northeast of downtown. Most of the action is on the main drags of Penn Avenue and Smallman Street. And by action I mean gourmet food shops offering such scrumptious delights as just-baked breads and pastries, fine chocolates, exotic cheeses, meats, seafood and ethnic specialties. There also are stores stocked with funky clothes and novelty items.

Although the shops are open daily (with many closed Sunday), the Strip is at its bustling best on Saturday morning when it also becomes a cross between a farmer’s and flea market. Sidewalk vendors hawk everything from Steeler’s T-shirts to kabobs to fresh produce to homemade lasagna.

I hurried down to the Strip on a Saturday morning and was immediately awed by the hungry masses waiting in line to have breakfast at DeLuca’s, a diner touting homespun fare and large portions. Rather than waste precious shopping time, I opted to pop into La Prima Espresso Company, where I downed a very reasonably priced (and authentic) cappuccino.

So, now I was caffeinated and ready to dive in.  All I can say is that it’s nearly impossible to name (or visit in a day) every shop in the district—it’s downright overwhelming. I was gratified to see all the mom and pop specialty stores, finding it refreshing that the Strip had not succumbed to the chain mentality. Being an Italian food aficionado, I loved exploring the Italian groceries with inventories worthy of great chefs and cooks. Pennsylvania Macaroni Company, a culinary tour de force, exhibited a world-class selection of pastas, olive oils, sauces and deli items. I had fun sampling various cheeses, pesto, olives and other blissful concoctions.

Needless to say, I wasn’t too hungry for lunch—but when you’re in a place like this, you eat! Bella Notte fit the bill, a casual spot with sidewalk seating and enormous yet tasty pizzas. Afterward, I browsed more stores, with such inventory as popcorn in every flavor imaginable, old-fashioned penny candy, coffees and kitchenware. I stopped by Enrico Biscotti for dessert to-go, and had trouble deciding between the delectable chocolate almond biscotti, coconut macaroons and flourless chocolate torte. (Logic won out and I purchased all three—snacks for later, I rationalized. This turned out to be a smart decision.)

As I wandered back toward my car, I carefully edged my way along the sidewalk past the crowded circus that is Wholey’s Fish Market, with its blue and white awnings and booming loud speaker announcing the next number ready to be served at the indoor counter.
 
Many of the businesses in the Strip wind down around 5 p.m., and it sort of becomes a dead zone until late evening, when young hipsters descend upon the area to visit trendy nightspots fashioned out of renovated warehouses.